Doya Vibes

As I sat down to sift through the photos Steve and I took during our time in Istanbul, I was struck by the contrast. We saw a lot of stunning sites in this historic city, but it left us with mixed feelings. Istanbul ended up being our least favorite stop on our extended trip to Turkey, despite its rich cultural history and vibrant neighborhoods.

In this post, I’ll break down the good, the bad, and the downright startling moments from our time in Istanbul.

A Little Background

In the summer and fall of 2022, Steve and I spent 11 weeks exploring Turkey. We started with six weeks along the Mediterranean Coast, also known as the Turkish Riviera, where we were taken aback by a side of Turkey we never knew existed. After that, we spent a week in Cappadocia, known for its iconic hot air balloon rides and scenic hiking trails. Our journey concluded with four weeks in Istanbul, Turkey’s most populous and famous city.

Check out our other posts from this trip:

• “6 Cities, 6 Vibes on the Turkish Riviera”
• “18 Things to Know Before Visiting Cappadocia”
• “Turkey is for Cat Lovers”

A Little Istanbul Geography

Istanbul is a city that straddles two continents—Europe and Asia—separated by the Bosphorus Strait. Most of the famous landmarks are located on the European side, which also drives up the price of accommodation there. To balance our budget, we split our four-week stay between the European and Asian sides, finding more modern and affordable Airbnbs in Asia.

The Good

1. Incredible Museums

• Topkapi Palace: Situated on the European side, this sprawling complex served as the administrative center for the Ottoman Empire and was home to Ottoman sultans for centuries. Don’t miss the harem, the imperial family’s private quarters.
• Dolmabahce Palace: Built in the mid-1800s to rival European palaces, this majestic building replaced Topkapi as the sultans’ primary residence.
• Basilica Cistern: A surprising and beautiful underground wonder, lit by changing colored lights. This 6th-century cistern once supplied the city’s water and is a must-see.
• Kucuksu Palace: A smaller, elegant hunting palace on the Asian side, perfect for a quick visit.
• Rumeli Fortress: This impressive fortress was built before the conquest of Constantinople in 1453, and its 30-acre grounds offer a stark contrast to Istanbul’s opulent palaces.
• Panorama 1453 Museum: This unique museum focuses on the fall of Constantinople, complete with a 38-meter-wide panoramic dome that brings the historic event to life.
• Hagia Sofia and Blue Mosque: These iconic mosques are located in Sultanahmet. Hagia Sofia’s history as a Byzantine cathedral-turned-mosque is especially fascinating.

2. The Quirky Balat Neighborhood
Balat is colorful, funky, and full of steep hills. While it takes some effort to explore, the reward is a neighborhood packed with personality.

3. The People – Individually

• Taxi Driver: We were lucky to find an honest cab driver when public transportation failed us. Despite a long, slow ride that exceeded the quoted fare, he only charged us what he had originally promised.
• Impromptu Crossing Guard: An older man stopped traffic for us at a crosswalk, a gesture of kindness that made a lasting impression.

The Bad

1. The Slums
After hours of searching, we found an Airbnb in the Beyoglu neighborhood. Inside, the apartment was great. But outside? It was surrounded by run-down buildings and garbage-filled lots. Walking through the neighborhood to catch a bus or get anywhere made us uncomfortable, though we never felt unsafe.

2. The Crowds
Istanbul is home to over 15 million people, and the streets are often packed. Walking around was a challenge, and we found ourselves bumping into people frequently.

3. The Traffic
Istanbul’s roads are chaotic, with drivers constantly switching lanes and motorcycles adding to the confusion. Traffic congestion was ever-present, making getting around stressful.

4. Impassable Sidewalks
In many areas, the sidewalks were so cluttered with cars, tables, or other obstacles that we had to walk in the street.

5. Unreliable Buses
Despite having an extensive bus system, the schedules were unpredictable. Buses would arrive either too early or too late, and once on board, the crowds were overwhelming.

6. Lack of Information
It was surprisingly difficult to find reliable information online during our time in Turkey. A simple bus schedule or restaurant menu often turned into a puzzle.

The Startling

1. Apartment Fire
One night, the fire alarms in our Airbnb went off. We evacuated and watched as smoke billowed from the upper floors of our building. Luckily, the fire was contained to the outside, but it was terrifying. The next morning, the fire reignited, and we had to evacuate again. We ended up moving to a hotel for the last few nights of our stay.

2. The Worst Hotel Ever
After the fire, we stayed in a nearby hotel that turned out to be filthy and rundown. Fortunately, we later found the Buem Hotel, where we experienced true comfort for our final days in Istanbul.

3. Bombing on Istiklal Street
Just weeks after we left, a bombing occurred on Istiklal Street, a popular shopping area. While devastating, we believe this shouldn’t deter travelers from exploring the world.

Final Thoughts

Would we recommend visiting Istanbul? Not really. There’s plenty to see, but the city’s challenges detracted from the experience. If you do go, we suggest staying in Sultanahmet and limiting your visit to a week or less.

What It Cost

Dates: Sept. 22 – Oct. 19, 2022
Number of nights: 27
Total cost for two people: $3,900
Cost per day for two: $144

Breakdown:

• Lodging: $2,500
• Dining: $500
• Groceries: $500
• Activities: $100
• Transportation: $300

Until next time, happy traveling!